Protective hairstyles like braids and twists are beloved for their versatility and convenience. However, if you’ve ever felt your scalp itch or burn after getting your hair braided, you’re not alone. Many synthetic hair extensions are treated with chemicals that can irritate the skin on your scalp. Understanding what’s in traditional braiding hair – and why non-toxic alternatives can make a difference – is key to keeping your scalp healthy and comfortable.
The Hidden Chemicals in Synthetic Hair
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Traditional synthetic braiding hair is essentially plastic (often acrylic or modacrylic fibers) that’s been engineered to mimic human hair. To achieve a natural look and feel, manufacturers coat the fibers in compounds like alkaline (a corrosive base), silicones, dyes, and other additives. If the extensions are Kanekalon, for example, they may contain vinyl chloride – a chemical used to make PVC plastic that helps the hair stay soft and lightweight. Vinyl chloride is actually classified as a carcinogen, although the highest risk is to factory workers inhaling its fumes. Another hidden additive is flame-retardant fibers, which some manufacturers include to meet fire safety standards. These flame retardants and other preservatives can leach out or release fumes, creating potential hazards beyond just the hair itself.
Because hair extensions are considered beauty products, there is little to no regulation of the chemicals used in them. This means we often don’t know exactly what cocktail of substances is on that new pack of braids. Recent investigations have started to shed light on the scope of the issue. In early 2025, Consumer Reports tested ten popular synthetic braiding hair products and found concerning chemicals in majority of them. It’s sobering to realize that substances linked to cancer and organ damage have been detected on something we put against our scalp for weeks at a time. Even chemicals meant to protect the hair fiber – like those flame retardants – may carry their own health risks over the long term.
Importantly, these findings aren’t meant to scare anyone away from braids or extensions, but they do highlight why choosing non-toxic hair (or taking steps to remove those chemicals) matters. “Let’s be real – why should hair need detoxing before even touching a scalp? Braiding hair should be safe from the start,” as one beauty expert put it. The good news is that awareness is growing, and safer options are becoming more available.
How Chemical Coatings Impact Your Scalp
For most people, the most immediate problem with synthetic hair isn’t the possibility of long-term toxicexposure – it’s the itching and irritation that can start within hours or days of getting extensions. Common symptoms include an itchy, inflamed scalp, redness, or even small raised bumps. “Itching, redness, or an eczema-like rash on the scalp are all common symptoms of an allergic reaction to braids,” explains Dr. Naana Boakye, a board-certified dermatologist. In more severe cases, the irritation can lead to folliculitis (tender pimples around hair follicles) or swelling. Many people don’t immediately connect these symptoms to the hair itself – especially if they’ve worn braids before without issue. But an allergy or irritation can develop over time, even to products you’ve used for years. If you notice your neck, shoulders, or hairline breaking out after new extensions, that’s a clue that the synthetic hair (not just styling gels or tightness) could be the culprit.
Why does this happen? The chemical residue on synthetic hair can cause a type of contact dermatitis – essentially, your skin sees the substance as an irritant or allergen and mounts an inflammatory response. The alkaline coating on braiding hair is a major offender. That coating puts the hair’s pH at around 9 or 10, which is very high (alkaline) compared to the natural pH of our scalp (~4.5 to 5.5). This mismatch can trigger irritation on its own. Furthermore, chemicals like acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride (found in modacrylic fibers) can release VOCs that irritate the skin and lungs. Dr. Boakye notes that these compounds are even classified as carcinogens, but in the context of braids, they’re mostly “potential culprits for allergic reactions” and inflammation. In short, the very things that make synthetic hair convenient – coatings to prevent frizz, fibers that don’t burn easily, vivid plastic colors – can be rough on our scalps.
If scalp irritation is ignored and the braids stay in, the constant inflammation could even affect your hair growth. “An allergic reaction (and the resulting inflammation) caused by any of the synthetic hair’s ingredients could lead to additional side effects, most notably hair loss,” warns Dr. Zoë Indigo, another board-certified dermatologist. The inflammation around the follicles can make hair more likely to shed. Thankfully, this kind of hair loss is usually reversible once the irritant is removed and the scalp calms down – but it’s yet another reason to address any braid-related itch promptly.
Expert Tips to Protect Your Scalp
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The first step in protecting your scalp is identifying if you have a sensitivity to synthetic hair. Dermatologists often recommend doing a simple patch test when trying a new brand of extensions. “When testing synthetic hair to see if you are allergic, I recommend taking a piece of the hair and literally rubbing it behind your ear or on your wrist,” Dr. Indigo suggests. Wait 48 hours and see if the skin develops redness, bumps, or itchiness. If so, you’ll want to avoid installing that hair on your entire head.
If you decide to use traditional synthetic hair, a tried-and-true method to minimize irritation is pre-washing the hair before installation. Many braid wearers swear by soaking the extensions in a dilute apple cider vinegar (ACV) bath. This helps because vinegar (acidic) neutralizes the alkaline coating on the hair. Brenda Johnson, a professional hairstylist, recommends a rinse of one-third ACV to two-thirds water; soak the hair in it for about 30–60 minutes, then rinse and air-dry completely. The vinegar helps bring the hair’s pH closer to that of your scalp, dissolving or neutralizing the chemicals that cause the "braid itch." Just be sure to let the hair dry fully – installing damp extensions could invite mildew or odor.
Other tips from experts include limiting how long you keep a protective style in (dermatologists suggest about 4–6 weeks, especially if you’ve experienced irritation), and not braiding too tightly, which can exacerbate inflammation or cause traction hair loss. If you do have a reaction, treat your scalp gently – apply soothing products (like aloe vera gel or hydrocortisone cream, as recommended by a dermatologist) and remove the extensions if the reaction is severe. It’s also wise to wash your scalp regularly even with braids in, using a gentle, fragrance-free shampoo or scalp cleanser to remove any buildup of irritants.
Finally, listen to your skin: if a certain brand of hair always makes you break out in hives or leaves your scalp raw, stop using it. Your comfort and health are more important than pushing through an itchy style. As the Consumer Reports investigation urged, anyone who experiences a bad reaction to synthetic hair should consider reporting it to the FDA or seeing a doctor. This helps raise awareness and ensures your scalp heals properly.
Safer Alternatives: Non-Toxic Hair Options
One pioneering brand leading this health-first movement isCurlkalon. Founded in 2014, Curlkalon was one of the first companies to offer premium synthetic hair that is alkaline-free and specifically made for sensitive scalps. They debuted with pre-curled crochet hair that didn’t have the usual lye coating, sparing customers from the notorious braid itch. Curlkalon’s philosophy is that women shouldn’t have to choose between beautiful styles and a healthy scalp – and they’ve proven it’s possible to have both. Every piece of Curlkalon hair is crafted without harsh chemicals, so you can install their curls or wigs right out of the package with no vinegar bath needed. The fibers are also lightweight to avoid putting excess tension on your roots. This focus on gentle design means that even those with sensitive skin or scalp conditions can wear stylish protective looks with minimal risk of irritation. Curlkalon’s success has shown the beauty industry that beautiful hair should never come at the cost of healthy hair – a motto now echoed by many in the natural hair community.
Healthy Scalp, Happy You
Your scalp is the foundation for your hair – when it’s healthy, calm, and nourished, you not only feel better, but your natural hair thrives under your protective styles. Choosing non-toxic hair extensions is an investment in that scalp health. It means fewer nights lying awake from incessant itching, fewer sores or flakes after takedown, and more enjoyment of your braids, twists, or wigs while you have them in. It also means taking control of what you’re exposing your body to. We all deserve hairstyles that make us feel confident and care-free, not uncomfortable or concerned.
In summary, non-toxic or itch-free hair isn’t just a marketing gimmick – it’s a response to a real problem that many have silently endured for years. If you’ve ever felt that familiar burn on your scalp, consider giving your skin a break by opting for safer hair or properly cleansing the synthetic hair before use. Your scalp will thank you, and your styles will still be as stunning as ever – just without the side effects. After all, caring for your hair should include caring for the skin it grows from. With the growing availability of non-toxic hair brands and a better understanding of product ingredients, we can all look forward to protective styles that truly protect not just our hair, but our health as well.
Sources
Consumer Reports – Dangerous Chemicals Were Detected in 100% of the Braiding Hair We Tested (Feb 2025) hsph.harvard.eduwsoctv.com
Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health – Synthetic braiding hair used by Black women contain dangerous chemicals (Mar 2025)hsph.harvard.eduhsph.harvard.edu
Allure – Your Braiding Hair Might Be Giving You an Allergic Reaction (Nov 2023)
Essence – Had An Allergic Reaction To Braids? Here’s What You Should Know (Dec 2022)
Essence (Girls United) – Shop These Braiding Hair Brands That Are Non-Toxic and Itchy Free (Apr 2025
Curlkalon Hair – About Us (Health-Conscious Hair) curlkalon.com
